W-Trek, East to West

Day 1

 Your first day in Torres Del Paine will be spent making the climb to Campamiento Chileno or Campamiento Torres. This depends on if you’re willing to pay for camping at Chileno or hike the extra hour and a half to Torres for free camping, which is also much more scenic (in my opinion) as your campsite is nestled in a forest. The hike starts in the valley and quickly rises up a massive hill, which in turn materializes into exposed mountainside. The trail becomes deceivingly steep and unrelenting, but after about an hour and a half tops out and you’re left overlooking the windy trail ahead. This downhill section gradually meanders to Campamiento Chileno which is about 30 minutes from the apex of the climb.

 From here you can decide to pay and camp, or push another hour and a half to Campamiento Torres. Chileno lies alongside a river and is nice, but also small and doesn’t need a very large group to make it feel crowded.  The trek to Torres is a cake walk compared to the initial climb up the mountain and much more enjoyable as you wander through windswept forests, unexpected meadows, and skirt alongside a river. This section has quite the “Zen” experience with miniature waterfalls trickling down the mountainside finding their way through rocks and roots, not to mention the outstanding greenery of the forests. It’s an ecosystem that's unique along the W, and the trail itself really immerses you in the surrounding biodiversity. There are a few gradual inclines heading to Torres, none of which very serious and are broken up by pleasant sections of flats. It makes this portion a great place to “take it all in” and be present with the moment, not having to worry about exerting yourself. Emerging from a primeval Lord of the Rings-esque forest you find Campamiento Torres settled on a subtle dip in the contour of the land that creeps towards the river. It's personally one of my favorite campsites along the W. 

 This lichen clad forest campsite is free, however if you arrive late you may find it difficult to locate a manageable spot for your tent. The earlier you arrive, the better. The site has restrooms and communal cooking area available, as well as accessible water but make sure you retrieve it above the campsite not from below. Stay the night under trees and stars, and be ready for an early start to catch the sunrise and changing shades of the Torres peaks. Checkout from Torres is at 10AM, be sure to break down camp and pack up before then. Leave your mochila and scamper up a steep trail strewn with loose rock and gravel for about an hour until you’re dropped at the base of the magnificent towers. Pick your prime spot on any of the hundreds of boulders, cozy up in your jacket, and enjoy the spectacle nature provides. If you really planned ahead you’ll have a thermos of coffee ready to warm the bones, but either way you can’t go wrong here. A perfect blend of beauty and power; the Torres peaks leave you nothing less than awe inspired. 

W Trek, Off the Beaten Path

By far the most popular route in the park, the "W Trek" offers up some of the greatest scenic and dramatic landscapes on the planet. That being said however this also means it's the most crowded section of the park, especially during peak season between December and February.

From Paine Grande to Las Torres you are sure to encounter trekkers from across the globe, each having their own personal style, technique, and philosophy towards backpacking. Aside from the array of: trekking poles, tents, packs, boots, camera's, sleeping bags, and clothing you encounter; the one thing which impacts your trek the most besides weather, is people. It is beautiful here, even the most elitist and "trendy" outdoor enthusiast will agree on that. But when you're ascending the incline to Las Torres or heading to Glacier Grey, one thing that takes away from the surrounding beauty is the noise and presence of other humans a mere four feet ahead. It gets crowded, some move like the surrounding glaciers of the park, some move like the puma, and some move like a guanaco. The trekkers here proceed on all spectrum's of the speed scale and inevitably sooner or later you too, will be stuck going at a comatose like pace. 

To remedy this sense of "human claustrophobia"  it's highly recommended trying a detour off  the W-Trek's beaten and well trodden path, but only with an APPOINTED GUIDE of course. Bader Valley lies between the Cuernos Del Paine and Paine Chico, and in between Cuernos and Las Torres, leaning closer to the Cuernos campsite. What looks like a mere game trail soon becomes a steep scramble and soon find yourself crawling over loose rocks, thinking twice about the decision to escape the hordes on the trail below. The route won't be sugar coated, it is tough, but absolutely achievable by anyone in moderate shape who's willing to tough it out. Take a breather and you're instantly reminded why you made the journey up Bader. A sweeping panoramic view of Lake Nordenskjold and the glacial shaped landscape of the park, with distant snow capped mountains on the horizon makes the view unbeatable. The camp lies in a pristine windswept grove of Nirre trees next to a makeshift hut used by climbers, which is quite cozy inside comfortably fitting 10. From the camp you ascend to the base of  Cuerno Norte and are left at the foot of a glacier with a glacial melt lake at your feet. 

You've made it, turn around 360 degree's and you have one of the best views in the park, along with something else. You're not surrounded by people like ants on a hill. It's just you, your friends, your guide, and Torres Del Paine in one of its purest and most tranquil states.